The flash of a neon light that split the night
February 8th, 2010 | Written by: Libby SterlingI’m in the best seat in the house. Alone, in the dark, front and center on the M/V Malaspina. It’s a February evening and the view from beyond the railings on deck is completely invisible in the night, save for a series of blinking and steady lights guiding our captain through the Wrangell Narrows. A crew member cut the inside lights a while earlier, explaining that any ambient light from inside the vessel may hinder the captain’s navigation through the channels.
I feel the vessel twist and turn, as if meandering through a parking garage or snaking through rabbit tunnels. A spotlight is flicked on, the light hitting an island maybe forty feet off the starboard side. We twist again in darkness. The spotlight comes on again, this time pointing straight ahead at yet another island. Another twist.
The buoys flash with green and red lights; red on the right, green on the left. As we navigate the narrows, we come closer and closer to the buoys, sometimes only ten feet on either side of the ferry.
I’m no longer alone. A few fellow passengers have come to watch the show as well. One of them explains to the others what we’re seeing, and luckily I’m within earshot.
“This is one of the most intricate channels that I’ve ever seen,” he says. “Sixty-two marks from beginning to end.”
The range marks, he explains, are pairs of orange lights on individual towers coming out of the water or on land. Depending on where a range mark is viewed from, the lights may line up vertically or at an angle. When they’re vertically in line, the captain knows he is on the right track.
“Okay, now he’s going to have to veer left,” the man predicts. The vessel veers, seemingly never slowing a single knot.
More onlookers have gathered, fascinated by the array of blinking spots that seem to continue endlessly in the distance, like an 8-bit video game.
The glow of Petersburg illuminates the clouds ahead, allowing us some perspective as to the landscape around us. We press on until only one more pair of red and green blinks before us, continuing long after we’ve passed.






























